MANNERS
How we make your shoes is up to you. Our choice of crafting Manners provides you with a variety of options when it comes to the construction and this guide will help you understand the options you have available to you. If you have any questions you can always get in touch with use via our contact page.
All of our shoes are made to the highest quality that we can produce. We don't spend four to six weeks making one single pair of shoes for them to be underwhelming, so you can feel assured that when your unique parcel arrives, it will not only be an exciting and exhilarating moment because of what they represent, but they will also be one beautiful pair of hand made shoes made of the finest standards and quality. Because we make every single pair of our shoes to order, you have the privilege of making choices, not only in the design but also in the construction, and so we have created our five collections that separate the key differences.
We get it. Shoemaking isn't something everybody knows a great deal about and without understanding what makes our shoes truly special, you may well see little more than an expensive pair of shoes. So, allow us bring you into our world class shoemaking emporium allowing to make an informed choice between how you want your shoes to be made.
To start with, here's a summary of our five collections and what makes them different from one another.
- Manner 4
- Manner 3
- Manner 2
- Manner 1
- Exotic
- Handmade in around four to six weeks
- Fully customisable
- Pre-dyed calfskin leathers
- Burnishing options (done by hand)
- Suede and textile options
- Multiple last options
- Blake welted
- Choice of sole unit
- Add monogram personalisation
- Half sizes and wide fitting available
- Handmade in around four to six weeks
- Fully customisable
- Hand Dyed calfskin leathers
- Burnishing options (done by hand)
- Suede and textile options
- Multiple last options
- Blake welted
- Choice of sole unit
- Add monogram personalisation
- Half sizes and wide fitting available
- Handmade in around four to six weeks
- Fully customisable
- Pre-dyed calfskin leathers
- Burnishing options (done by hand)
- Suede and textile options
- Multiple last options
- Goodyear welted
- Choice of sole unit
- Add monogram personalisation
- Half sizes and wide fitting available
- Handmade in around four to six weeks
- Fully customisable
- Hand Dyed calfskin leathers
- Burnishing options (done by hand)
- Suede and textile options
- Multiple last options
- Goodyear welted
- Choice of sole unit
- Add monogram personalisation
- Half sizes and wide fitting available
- Handmade in around four to six weeks
- Fully customisable
- Pre-dyed or Hand Dyed exotic leathers
- Burnishing options (done by hand)
- Suede and textile options
- Multiple last options
- Goodyear welted
- Choice of sole unit
- Add monogram personalisation
- Half sizes and wide fitting available
The Welt
There are three basic methods of shoe construction: cementing, Blake welting, and Goodyear welting. Cementing is what you would expect to find on the high street. We don't cement our shoes. We only use both, Blake and Original Goodyear production methods. Each method has its advantages and defines how the sole is attached to the upper.
Goodyear welting is the oldest, most labour intensive, and most durable of the three methods of construction. Since the early 17th century, the Goodyear Welting process has been associated with excellence and superior workmanship. All this involves a process with more than 120 handcrafted phases, from beginning to end.
Blake welting was around the time of the industrial revolution. It's a quicker, less labour intensive method and involves stitching the outsole to the upper directly through the the outsole. What the Blake offers is flexibility and a much quicker breaking-in-period.
Both welted methods can be replaced when they're ready for restoration.
Our Leathers
We only use the finest grade quality hides. We work with some of the finest tanneries from across the globe, choosing our leathers specifically based on quality, durability and natural characteristics. For us, the finest calfskin leathers are the ones that bear some imperfections because that is what truly brings the character and unique nature of your shoes to life.
If you choose either Manner 4 or our Manner 2 collection for your construction, your leather will be pre-dyed. This means that it arrives into our workshop with a base colour already applied at the tannery. It makes for a more consistent finish and smooth colouration throughout your shoes.
Our Manner 3 and Manner 1 collection are both Hand Dyed. For us, Hand Dyed is the pinnacle of artisan shoemaking. The leather arrives without colour, known as russet leather, and your shoes will literally be painted by hand using our dyes. Not anybody can dye shoes, too much dye or a lack of control and you can quickly spoil a beautifully constructed shoe. Too little and they'll be washed out. The beauty of hand dyed is imperfection; these shoes are a piece of art for your feet and you will see it the moment you open your box. No two pairs are ever exactly the same.
For us, we would always encourage Hand Dyed. It is why this story began...
Finally, our Exotic collection is something a little bit special. We only use licensed and ethically certified tanneries to produce hides from exotic skins. Most of the leathers come from around Africa and can be pre-dyed or and Dyed.